3rd entry - "Bali" Thai (part 2)

(...continued from Part 1)

Deciding on a place to eat was the first adventure that we embarked on in Phuket. We wanted to see what was on offer around our resort. There were several deserted eateries but these were mostly open-air restaurants selling Italian pizza and pasta, Mexican food, seafood/steak & grill and wine bars and fusion Thai-European cuisine, as well as pubs selling western finger/fast food. Fortunately we spotted a street hawker selling Thai noodles in soup (similar to Vietnamese pho) and thought it would be nice to try it. Despite having to endure the heat and discomfort of perspiration trickling down our faces and soaking through our bodies, we enjoyed the chewy texture of the noodles, its tastiness enhanced by the crunchiness of the fresh bean sprouts and kang kong ("morning glory") and the light but flavourful chicken broth. I added in some chili flakes and fried chili paste to give the noodle a bit more "kick", while H said that he preferred eating the noodles with mint leaves and another local vegetable.

After eating the tasty noodles, we explored Kata town a bit, walking as far as the Boathouse towards Kata Noi beach, before heading back towards the resort. Along the way we stopped by a coffee joint called Andaman Coffee - like a Thai version of Starbucks, ordered 2 cuppas (including a coconut flavoured iced coffee which was very unique and refreshing) and enjoyed the drinks in the air-conditioned comfort of the cafe. As we sipped our drinks and chatted, watching the people walking by outside, time seemed to have slowed down. For us, it was an ideal way to truly unwind and relax...

In the late afternoon, we took a cab to Patong Town and went in search of a local seafood centre that served fresh and cheap seafood. The place that we were looking for (Aroonsom Seafood Centre) was actually near Deevana Resort and Spa in the northern part of Patong, where I stayed in on a previous visit to Phuket, but at that time I could not remember where it was. We walked around Jungceylon (the largest shopping centre and cinema) where we had a facial for only 300THB each, but the restaurants were over priced and not to our fancy. We then found a row of open-air seafood restaurants (opposite Royal Paradise Hotel) where we had a fulfilling dinner of fried large prawns with butter, black pepper mud crabs, stir-fried asparagus with garlic and the highlight of our meal: one large deep-fried red snapper with Thai-style sauce. Our first night in Phuket ended with a stroll down the beachfront at the famed Bangla Street junction. Back at our hotel, we took a dip in the swimming pool just outside our room before we turned in for the night. The water therapy soothed our tired muscles but the irritating mosquitoes forced us to abandon the water for the safety of our air-conditioned room.

The next day, after a hearty breakfast, we took a local bus (30THB) to Phuket Town. The bus trip itself was amazing - although it was very warm inside the bus, we relieved by light occasional breezes as the bus slowly made its way to the Town. Interestingly, the driver made a stop to collect the bus fare from all the passengers just as we were approaching the terminal station which was near the Chinese Temple (junction of Patiphat Rd and Ranong Rd) and a school run by monks. Apparently this was the only way the driver could ensure that none of his passengers could run away without paying the fare. We took in the sights of the Town, stopping by occasionally to visit some shops or to take photos.

At the roundabout where Ranong Rd joined Yaowarat Rd (Chinatown), we chanced upon Coffee Max, a tiny corner cafe that had very limited drinks on its menu and only 3 tables with seats - but it felt like an oasis to us because we could take a short break from the scorching sun and high humidity outside, and freshen-up a little before we continued our exploration. Later we browsed through some art galleries, including one which impressed H very much, as well as some shops. On the way back to the bus station, we stopped at a roadside stall to try a favourite local snack of fresh mangoes with glutinous rice and a topping of coconut cream sauce (40THB for one mango). The mango was in season and very sweet, while the glutinous rice with coconut was slightly savoury and soft but chewy and a little crunchy due to the topping of some kind of fried beans. I thought the snack was absolutely divine!

The sunset at Karon Beach was beautiful. Karon Beach was en route from Phuket Town to Kata Beach on the local shuttle bus, and we stopped not far from the roundabout where an old fountain stood like a sad reminder of a more glorious past. Karon's beach was longer than Kata's and offered an unblocked view of the sunset and the entire coastline from the main road running parallel to it. Tourists were surfing and playing beach volleyball as the sun set behind the clouds on the horzion. The markets selling t-shirts and souvenirs looked rather quiet, and the open-air restaurants were very empty too. We wondered whether these shops would ever survive...

We took a taxi from Karon back to our hotel where we reserved a table for dinner at the Palm Restaurant. After a refreshing shower at our rooms, we treated ourselves to a BBQ seafood buffet with live music and a cultural dance performance (399 THB per pax). The food was acceptable, and the dance was mediocre, but the music put up by the xylophone was highly entertaining. A rain that started halfway through the dinner disrupted the evening as we were forced to take shelter in the pavilion. Instead of dancing on the stage, some of the performers mingled among the diners as those who sat at the back of the pavilion were unable to see the stage clearly. This allowed some diners to come up close and personal with the performers, which was rather delightful.

Our last day at Phuket was spent in our hotel and at the Kata beach. After a breakfast, we took a dip in the resort's old and new swimming pools and jacuzzi, and returned to our rooms to pack and check out. Leaving our bags with the hotel, we made our way from the Kata Beach Resort (where the Kata local bus terminal was) towards Kata Noi beach (further south). By mid-day the sun was too hot and we took some drinks and cake at the Summer Coffee House opposite Tropical Garden Hotel. We were so comfortable in the tastefully furnished cafe that we simply sat there for over an hour, chatting and surfing the Internet. As we walked slowly back to the hotel, we stopped by our roadside noodle hawker and ordered 3 bowls of noodles - effectively ending our trip with the same noodles that we started with on the day we had arrived in Phuket. Time seemed to have passed so slowly that it was as if we were in Phuket for much longer!

Our taxi ride to the airport (700THB) took about one and a half hours due to a traffic jam (unbelievable, considering that it was a Saturday evening). At the airport we bought some donuts and drinks to nibble on before we boarded the plane back to Singapore. There was time to do some last minute bargain hunting and washing up. All in all, our trip was most enjoyable not only because we got to do almost everything that we had wanted to do, but also because H and I spent quality time together - hence the saying that the company that you travel with makes a huge difference! With the right travel companions, travelling will be truly pleasurable and satisfying!!

3rd entry - "Bali" Thai (part 1)

On 13 May 2010, H and I went on a 3D-2N holiday to Phuket, Thailand. We actually booked our air tickets and hotel way in advance, so we were really looking forward to the trip. We had such a wonderful time there that I felt it was a waste we couldn't spend more time there...

We booked a Tiger Airways flight departing from the Budget Terminal at 0800 hrs, so we arrived at the airport at 0600 hrs. While waiting for the boarding gate to open, we bought some drinks at MacDonald's and sat down to enjoy our cakes and egg tarts which I bought freshly-made from a stall at a coffeeshop near my office the day before. The airport transit area was surprisingly equipped with a large eatery in the atrium surrounded by several shops where one could buy anything from magazines to duty-free liquors and perfume. The corridor leading to the boarding gate looked like a deserted hospital corridor. The staff who gave us our boarding passes at the airline counter when we checked in was the same staff who checked our passes at the so-called "gatehold room". Given the tight competition among budget airlines and the need for them to cut costs to survive, H and I were joking that we might see the same staff doubling up as a flight attendant on board our plane and maybe even flying the plane as well!!

"Ladies and gentlemen, this is an important announcement. We are now approaching Phuket International Airport. Instead of landing the plane in the usual boring way, we are pleased to provide a special experience free-of-charge to our valued customers. Please grab the Tiger parachute below the seat in front of you and put it on, as we will not be landing. Instead, we will be opening the emergency exit doors shortly for you to jump off. We regret to inform you that most travel insurance does not cover this special service. We wish you a pleasant journey and hope to see you again soon!..."

Fortunately our plane did land the usual boring way - safely - in Phuket, and the above announcement was purely a figment of my twisted imagination. When we collected our check-in luggage, we discovered that H's luggage padlock was missing. After making a few enquiries with a number of taxi services outside the airport, we decided on one that charged 150THB per person. We were the last 2 passengers to join the mini-bus of about 10 pax. Along the way, the bus stopped at the office of the transport company "for checking of bus ticket". It turned out that they were using this as a pretext or opportunity for marketing their transport services, as their real intention was to check whether we were interested in booking a taxi from hotel to airport on the day that we departed from Phuket. Stiff competition indeed...


At 11am, we arrived at our destination: the Kata Palm Resort and Spa. Our resort was located in the heart of Kata Beach area in the south-western part of Phuket Island (about 20 minutes' drive from Patong, the most popular tourist spot in Phuket). The resort looked like a traditional Thai villa or small palace. Like many resort hotels, its main lobby was not air-conditioned but ventilated with open windows and ceiling fans. While the lobby was neither very spacious nor grand, guests would immediately feel relaxed in the warm, rustic decor, while enjoying the subtle luxury of gold-painted pillars, wooden carvings and frescos depicting traditional Thai life in the 15-16th century. The only complaint I had was the resort concierge's tardiness in registering us and some difficulty in communication because the staff's command of English was quite poor. But whatever frustration we experienced was quickly dissipated with the offer of a pleasant complimentary welcome drink and a room upgrade at 2,000THB per night (SGD177 for both nights - the discounted internet rate for the room was about 3,000THB per night).



We stayed in a Deluxe Pool Access room in the new extension, which allowed us to step out into the newer swimming pool from our large balcony/sunning deck. The room was spacious and well-equipped, with bathrobes, bedroom slippers and even flip-flops for outdoor use. Although it did not have a bathtub, the bathroom was quite spacious with all the necessary amenities. We had 2 complaints - there was no housekeeping service at night so we could only get our extra pillows the next day, and the mosquitoes were persistent and irritating! The room had a large fridge and kitchen sink with counter-top, and a King-sized bed with a firm mattress. With such a comfortable room, it made us hesitant to step out into the sweltering 34degree heat and stiffling humidity to explore the REAL Phuket, but being adventurous (and hungry) we soon mustered enough determination to leave the comfort of our "sanctuary".


(continued in Part 2...)

2nd entry - Ode to Thunder Tea Rice

Within the months of February to May, I have dined a record high number of buffet lunches and dinners. Every special occasion e.g. aunt from Melbourne's visit, my sweetheart's birthday, celebration of performance bonus, farewell/thank you dinner for my colleagues, Mother's day etc warranted a trip to a buffet restaurant. When I went on a luxury cruise on board Superstar Virgo, it was literally a buffet trip because every meal was buffet-styled.

None of the buffets, however, could substitute the humble, nutritious and delicious Thunder Tea (Lei Cha) rice in Geylang. I first tried the Thunder Tea rice, a Hakka creation, with my best friend K, many years ago. We had gone to a particular coffeeshop in Geylang to try the dish after swimming, and it instantly became my favourite dish! The aroma of the hot green tea blending with the chunky vegetables such as pickled radish, groundnuts and winged beans made this flavourful and textured dish as unforgettable as it was irresistible. It became a special dish that my friend and I shared, and we introduced them to our sweethearts who also enjoyed this healthy and economical dish ($3.50 for white rice, and $4 for brown rice, and $0.50 extra for fried "dou gan" or hard beancurd stuffed with minced pork).



I have tried Thunder Tea rice at Amoy Street Food Centre (ground floor) and Suntec City Food Republic (ground floor), and while both have their unique recipes resulting in their distinct flavours, my friend K and I still liked the one at Geylang most. Even when it shifted quietly from Lorong 17 to Lorong 19 (apparently due to rental issues), we were determined to locate the shop. Our search was not in vain, as we were soon rewarded by the delicious dish when we finally found the shop. I even took a namecard from the elusive shop - lest it vanished again.

Alas, K told me today that the stall owners, an elderly couple, have retired and their delicious creation could no longer be enjoyed by its fans. I felt so sad that I immediately went to hunt for the Lei Cha recipe online, but I was unsuccessful in finding one that I felt was close to what I tasted. I wished I could have tasted the dish one last time before it began to fade into the distant memories of Lei Cha...