5th entry - My Trip to Bali

On my 3rd entry, I blogged about Phuket - the so-called "Bali Thai" because one could easily feel as though in Bali even though its Phuket. Ironically, when I finally did go to Bali earlier this week, I felt as though I was in Phuket. Parts of Kuta town appeared somewhat similar to Patong town in Phuket, especially the streets where tourist souvenirs, clothing and fashion accessories were sold. Unlike Phuket, however, Bali had fewer roadside stalls selling local fare and fruits.

One aspect of Bali that I enjoyed was the traditional and distinctive architectural style of many buildings, and this is a major difference from Phuket. There were hardly any tall concrete or glass buildings, and most were 2 to 3 storeyed terraced houses (including shophouses). Many had facades with pagoda-like structures and steps leading up to a narrow gate. Even gift shops were built like traditional Balinese-styled temples. Interestingly, the predominant color of many walls of buildings in Bali is a dark orange (like the color of the setting sun) and these are framed by elaborate ornate designs (typically dark grey).

Another facinating aspect of Bali is its spirituality. Shrines of all sizes could be seen in almost all shops (except Muslim ones) and Balinese men and women made offerings and prayers throughout the day. The offerings of flowers, food and incense could be frequently observed at the doorsteps of shops, even at the airport Duty Free shops. Statues of Balinese gods and deities could be seen in many street corners, and some were wrapped in yellow silk cloth or grey-chequered cloth.

The rich cultural tapestry of Bali is undergoing change due to modernization and western influence. For instance, even the Barong dance, one of many traditional folk dances that Bali is reknown for, appeared to have modernised and been adapted for foreigners, resulting in a more light-hearted performance that one could easily relate to even if we are alien to Balinese culture. Rather than diluting the Balinese culture, I think such adaptations bring the culture closer to us so that we know Bali is more than just a picturesque paradise - it is also rich in culture and tradition as well.

I think I would love to visit Bali again.  There were many interesting places that I didnt have a chance to visit on this trip as there was not enough time.  Bali should be enjoyed at a slow pace, with a wonderful travelling companion, and when the weather was cooler such as during November or December.  An unforgettable pleasurable experience awaits any visitor to Bali, for indeed it is as alluring (or even more so) than what many travel guides describe.

4th entry - Kelong Trip

On 29 May, H and I went on a kelong trip. A kelong is a Malay term for a house built on stilts over the sea. Kelongs were traditionally built by indigenous Malay fishermen who laid nets across the stilts to trap fish that swam towards or along the shallow coastline for shelter and food. Kelongs are thus extended quite far out from the shore towards the sea. These days, farms for fish, crab, prawns and other seafood can also be built in the form of kelongs, as fish are increasingly difficult to catch along the coastal waters. A few, like the Kawal Kelong, have even turned into resorts, attracting many city dwellers who enjoy fishing as a hobby or seek a unique holiday experience.

My journey to Kawal Kelong started from Tanjong Pinang, a bustling port town on Bintan Island, Indonesia. Most Singaporean visitors to Tanjong Pinang and other parts of Bintan (for golf etc) take a 2-hour cruise ride from Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal. Upon arrival at Tanjong Pinang, mini buses and MPVs rented by Kawal Kelong were waiting to pick us up. A one-hour journey from town through the countryside on a bumpy pot-holed road brought us to the pier connecting the kelong resort to the mainland.

Kawal Kelong is a rustic, "homestay"-style resort. Supported by strong wooden poles, the resort has about 20-25 guest rooms (twin-sharing), half of which face the sea and the other half facing a "swimming pool" in the centre of the kelong. The pool is essentially part of the sea, enclosed by fishing nets, and one can enter it by either jumping in from the corridor or sliding down a water slide. Although the resort is considered small in terms of floor area, each guest room comes with the essential creature comforts such as attached shower rooms with toilet and a double bed, a wardrobe with hangars, and even soap and bath towels. However, the only air-conditioned room is a large karaoke room - each guest rooms is only ventilated by one electric fan. The lucky ones who get the sea-facing room have an excellent view that also brings in a cool breeze.



The resort owner Mr Lim is a Singaporean entrepreneur, assisted by his capable wife and a team of friendly local staff. A typical one nights' stay at the resort comes with 4 meals - lunch and dinner on the first day, followed by breakfast and lunch on the second day (before checkout). Lunch and dinner comes with a fresh, sumptuous local seafood spread prepared by Mrs Lim herself and her kitchen helpers - depending on the catch of the day, guests can expect delicious blanched dog conch ("gong gong") with a special chili dip, "flower" and mud crabs stir-fried in chili or black pepper, fresh whole fish ranging from sea bass to groupers, sambal chili prawns, deep-fried spicy chicken, fried calamari rings or baby squid in sambal sauce, assorted seafood soup and green leafy vegetables with garlic. For breakfast, guests can have western-styled bread and sausages with chicken eggs or oriential-styled rice porridge, fried rice vermicelli and egg noodles with otak-otak (a sort of chili paste with chunks of fish and squid). Sometimes guests can be treated to a supper of dessert soup and satay, chunks of spicy marinated and tender chicken, beef or mutton on bamboo skewers, grilled over charcoal fire.

The highlight of the kelong trip is a visit to one of the nearby islands. On this trip, we were brought on a one-hour speed boat cruise to a deserted island for an afternoon of swimming and fun. We saw tiny fishes feeding amongst the corals in the clear, relatively calm waters. If only we brought our snorkels... what a pity! Some of us also took the banana boat ride. Besides these, water-sports enthusiasts can rent canoes, kayaks and jet skies. Snorkelling masks and flippers as well as life jackets are also available for guests free-of-charge, and one can simply explore the clear, unpolluted sea around the kelong.

For those who seek a more laid-back holiday, there are mahjong tables and board games (e.g. carrom) and local television programmes that be viewed from the lounge area. One can also just sit back on one of the bamboo sofa couches and enjoy the sea breeze, chatting with friends over a can or two of beer or cool beverage (chargeble) or cups of hot beverages (free-of-charge). Unlimited drinking water is available throughout the day. Unbelievably, the entire trip costs only $160 per person (inclusive of return ferry tickets, taxes and land transfers, and 4 meals).

Perhaps the most memorable part of the trip for me was waking up in the morning to see the sunrise with H. At 6am, dawn breaks over the horizon in a spectacular splash of beautiful vibrant colors, with breathtaking cloud formations that are reflected on the calm surface of the sea. Shoals of fish swim in their thousands towards the kelong, as if queuing up for their breakfast; even box crabs can be seen climbing up the wooden poles, scuttling away in a hurry to the safety of the shadows when they are discovered. Kingfishers perch stoically on poles around the kelong, ready to swoop down into the shallow water for an unsuspecting fish or crab. H and I tried our best to take as many photographs of the picturesque landscape as we possibly could.



I tried to swim from the so-called boat jetty of the kelong to a floating platform tethered by a rope to the kelong, but the current that swept me back towards the kelong (away from the platform) were so strong that I was forced to give up. In that 15 minute swim, however, I was mesmerized by the shimmering sunlight over the bed of thick sea grass that swayed gently and rhythmically in the ocean current. For a moment, I felt as if I was floating over a lush green meadow on a summer breeze, and clouds were drifting over the meadow in the sky above my head, casting their shadows over the grass. The experience was unforgettable.

Before returning to Singapore, H took us to town where many bought local produce such as ikan bilis (dried anchovies), dried shrimps and oat nut crackers with chili (balingjiau or emping pedas). I believe that I would visit the Kawal Kelong again, provided that it does not succumb to coastal development, financial woes or environmental pollution...